Tag America

Border Crossing

Having always loved Latin music, food, clothing and culture, my first trip to Mexico was dreamt about for years before it actually occurred. Last week I was able to live that dream when we crossed into Progreso from Texas. This was supposed to be a time of intense joy as a lifelong dream of visiting Mexico was finally achieved. However, the experience was sorely spoiled by the government on our side of the border. Here’s why:

I’ve crossed some 20 borders in my day, and not one of them has required me to pay for the privilege of exiting and re-entering the country. But, believe it or not, this is exactly what happens when you cross the land border between Texas and Mexico. In order to pass you must deposit a shiny quarter into the waiting mouth of a machine before it will grant passage into Mexico. Roughly 19,750 million American visit Mexico each year. This number times .25 = $4,937,500. That’s four million bucks the US government makes on American cross-border transportation. While I completely understand that the US-Mexico border needs funds in order to operate, I have a small problem understanding why this is the only border in the world that requires this payment. Side note: the Mexican side charges .35 cents to each person exiting the country for America. They make over 6 million a year.

Many people, Texans mostly, travel to Mexico to buy cheap goods. Cheaper liquor is one such item folks will traverse the borders in search of. While in Mexico we did what many other gringos around us were doing– we shopped, ate enchiladas, had a few margaritas and then bought a bottle of booze to carry across the border to America. While in 2009 the laws stipulated that each citizen could bring back a bottle a month, untaxed, something has changed. We were stopped by rude and rough border guards who demanded $1.25 per liter of liquor. There was no explanation, just a demanding voice, a gloved palm reaching through bars and a continued barking of the order to pay up. There was no willingness to explain, no literature on why the tax was suddenly applies to each bottle entering the country. Sigh.

I don’t want it to seem like the trip to Mexico wasn’t amazing—because it was! A small mariachi band played while we sat on a balcony overlooking the main street having margaritas, children rode their bikes up and down the main drag while adults sold a sundry of baskets, rugs and other items to passing tourists. The food was good, the people were friendly and not pushy, and despite being within spiting distance of the USA, the culture was unique to Mexico and very vibrant. Hotel Del Arco Los Cabos is a great place to stay while traveling through the Cabo San Lucas area.

Dear President Obama,

In response to your recent town hall meeting, I have a question I’d like to pose to you as a concerned citizen. Why is Amtrak such a mess?

I am an avid traveler. I have traveled extensively in countries across Asia and Europe. Our blog and route maps act as a testament to how far we have gone. We travel only by land, thus we experience the transportation networks of Asia and Europe, and the waterways of the Atlantic. While we have had some amazing adventures (and some misadventures) on international rail, I’m here to report, Mr. President, that the American rail network is one of the most pathetic, antiquated, and embarrassing systems I have ever encountered. Since I travel for a living, this is no small statement.

To solve the problem of why Amtrak is in such horrible disarray, we must take a step back form the problem at hand to assess the environment around it. America is so spread out that its citizens almost require a car to get from home to school or work. Since the citizens of the country live so far apart, and so far from necessities, having one’s own mode of transportation became imperative. Add to that the American sense of independence and you have a nation of people who ignored the rail network after the “west was won.” But ignoring the rail can no longer be afforded. Now is the time to fix it, and, as you have mentioned at tedium, your social programs are aiming to surpass your hero’s, President Roosevelt.

Inner city communities are being reclaimed across America and real-estate prices downtown are now surpassing the suburbs. Could it be that middle-class Americans actually want to dwell in America’s cities again? This would be a huge feat that owed thanks to many people. To complete the picture, however, these people need a way to get around inside the city without their cars. A way that is more convenient, not less so, than driving. We have bus networks in most major cities in America that at the least attempt to run hourly routes. Let me assure you, Mr. President, that buses in Shanghai, China run ever ten minutes making it the most convenient and least expensive way to get from home to work, or anywhere for that matter. Should that example displease you, consider the tram network in Sarajevo where anyone can get from anywhere in the city to another place simply using the city’s extensive tram and bus networks (and all for a VERY affordable price and with timely, rotating schedules). Do you consider those destinations third world? In terms of transportation they surpass us.

As an American hoping to get from Seattle, WA to Austin, TX I was left with few options. I could take an Amtrak train from Washington to Chicago, and then transfer to a southerly train or rent a car. The trip would take roughly a week. That same distance could be traveled in Russia in 2-3 days on the ground without renting a car. Where does that country fall on your “progress” scale?

As we lead the world in carbon emissions (no small feat since China seems to want to beat us on that score) your government could help by expanding the Amtrak network, making it more efficient and prioritizing it over the cargo trains that dominate the US tracks. Amtrak trains are the last priority on America’s rail network, and often spend hours waiting for cargo trains to leave the tracks before they can chug along lamely behind. And never mind that the Amtrak cars were designed to move cargo themselves, not humans. Having spent several days on Amtrak trains, I can testify that it is a trial no human should endure. The car in which I was seated to cross from Seattle to Milwaukee (a 40+ hour journey) had no heat in the middle of January, no functioning toilet, no electrical outlets, and a flickering light overhead. Does that remind anyone else of a cattle car? Trains in Mongolia have bunks stacked three high that are comfortable and clean, have hot running water, heat, electrical outlets and even food services passing through the cars. Riding Amtrak, I felt like a convicted felon (and indeed I was traveling with several recently released felons it turned out, since Amtrak attracts so little attention by our government it is often used to transport illegal items and questionable folks on questionable missions). The train in Mongolia, on comparison, was a Hyatt next to a Howard Johnson.

It was only after several accidents that the American trains were equipped with safety measures to protect the human cargo. Finally, why does the amazing experience of riding the rails cost nearly as much as a flight? Where is the money going? It certainly isn’t going into prioritizing passenger transport over cargo, or in the upkeep of the trains. The trains I rode in Uzbekistan were cleaner, more equipped and better staffed, and that country certainly isn’t on first world status in the US government’s opinion. So, where is the money going? Mr. President, your government wants accountability- account for why our transportation network is in such shambles that the only real option for a working adult to get across the nation is to fly- thus increasing carbon emissions, using precious fuel, bankrupting our citizens, and making holidays a nightmare? Why do third world nations have better transportation systems? Buying a car in America (and thus putting yourself further in debt) should not have to be a requirement to have a job, but in most cases there are no other options. This makes recent college graduates start off in debt, rather than ahead, and sets them up for financial failure; especially in this market. You have already bailed out the auto industry, how about helping out an industry that could actually revitalize transportation, help citizens who cant afford or don’t want to be burdened by a car? How about helping out the American rail network instead of the car companies that continue to squander government funding and then overcharge for poorly constructed machines? How about giving Amtrak a fighting chance?

Any responses you might have to my sincere questions, or any movement you could make in revamping the American rail system, would be greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,
ATC

Chinese and American Flags

Many folks in very important acronym-named think tanks spend their days thinking about the China versus America issue. I wish they would contact me; I could solve their dilemmas for them with relative ease since I’ve lived in both countries and am an avid complainer and comparison maker. This is an impressive title, but way too long for a business card which is why you’ve probably never heard of me in this capacity.

Let’s discuss employment on the China versus America issue, since that is a hot topic in both countries at present. China is an amazing place to live as an expat, and that is the side of China I have known over the past few years. Naturally I’m living in the upper middle class by Chinese standards while I’m there, so for the vast majority of Chinese, my opinions may seem elitist and literally ass backwards. I’m okay with that since I’ve given this disclaimer. I easily found work in China, decently paying, legal and taxed work as an editor at a bank complete with benefits, a swivel chair and a key card that beeped when you held it near the door.

I’ve lived in America as a child, and as a college student, but have spent less than a year as a gainfully employed American. This is partially because I have never been able to find work in the USA. I worked a few odd jobs in college and found a ridiculous post-grad school job that made me want to razor burn my eyeballs, but aside form that all I do is collect polite rejection letters. In the words of the late Kurt Vonnegut, “So it goes…” Yet the economy in the US is dropping like gravity has a hold of it while the situation in China is, in relative terms, defying gravity. Employing myself in any major city in China would be as easy as showing up with some resumes, a nice suit and the ability to speak my native tongue without drooling on myself.

Let’s tackle one additional hot topic in the China versus America issue – health care. In China I got pneumonia and spent $13 USD on a doctor’s visit, X-ray, analysis, blood work, analysis again, examination, more analysis and then medication. That’s $13 total to cure me of pneumonia and over two hours of office face time with doctors and lab folks. And by the way, I got all of my results within that two hours, including blood work and x-ray sheets. With surprising irony, I also got pneumonia in America a few years ago. The doctor met with me for five seconds, said I sounded funny when she put a stethoscope against my back and then wrote a prescription on a sticky pad. Comparatively, the later experience was like getting a medical check from a caveman.  The cost for my America visit nearly gave me an aneurysm (which, by the way, I could never afford in the USA)! Most intelligent folks will be saying, and yes I can hear you yelling through the world wide web’s invisible tubes, that China’s costs are lower due to the sheer volume of people paying for these goods and services. That’s true! I’m not here to argue, I’m just here to say that if I ever get sick again I’ll be standing in line in a Chinese hospital more confident and happy than if I was anywhere in the USA where doctors just prescribe you a drug and then slam the door in your face. I have no opinion on the health care debate now stalled in the US government except to say that I would hope we could come up with something better than bankrupting people for antiquated care and over-drugging them so they don’t care.

That’s all for this addition of China versus America. Tune in next time to hear my thoughts on freedom of press and gender equality. Fun, fun, fun!

Recently, I have been surprised by how difficult traveling is in America if you don’t want to fly. And reasonable people are prone not to want to sit in a metal tube as its flung across the nation with potential terrorists to hinder its flight, or birds to ruin its motors, or a drunken pilot- which is known to have occurred. True that flying is quicker, but its often not worth the hassle and this intrepid writer isn’t planning on boarding and flying vessels without a parachute. So, as I ponder how to get from Washington State on the West coast, to Texas, on the southern boarder, I’m struck by how few reasonably priced options there are.

As this isn’t Europe or Asia, and the argument for a larger and more comprehensive (and not inept) rail system in America has already been made and ignored, I’ll suffice to say that Amtrak leaves so much to be desired that most travelers rule it out as an option. To get from WA to TX would require a traveler to transfer to several different trains, and throw in a few bus rides to boot! That is out of the question for the hassle, the complications with transferring baggage personally, and the cost—which would be staggeringly close to $350 USD.

Let’s think about renting a car next. Since most US rental agencies shy from one-way rentals, there are not many options out there for finding a car to drive the distance without breaking your piggy bank. And trust me, my money really is in a giant piggy bank not worth running for a lousy car rental deal. A one-way rental plus gas would run me in the neighborhood of $500 USD.

Lets consider the bus network of America. Now, if one enjoys being watched over the back of the seat in front of you by a deranged cocaine addict who says your eyes look like food, then this is the way to go! However, if you are mentally stable then the Greyhound just might refuse you a seat. The cost of a bus to TX from WA is around $400 USD, and one would have to change buses several times before reaching the end destination—and reaching that same destination with all of one’s luggage and sanity is a real maybe.

So what is the American budget traveler to do?

Friends

There is something special about seeing an old friend after a two year absence. Returning to Illinois and Minnesota for the first time since the winter of 2007 I was able to meet up with friends I had not seen slowly age, mature, and come into their own. There is something beautiful about witnessing these changes slowly, but a stark realization of all of these things simultaneously is, perhaps, more lasting an impression.

In Illinois, a friend has acquired not only a wife, but has a child on the way. Another has moved on from an unhealthy lifestyle to a clearer path. In Minnesota, an old friend has found a new life with a wonderful lady. Another has bought and renovated a home. Still others have done similar mature activities since last I was state-side.

Seeing old friends after a long time is cathartic, we fall into our old conversations easily, and our comfort levels – rather than abating – somehow grew with distance but became more mature. Instead of chatting about ongoing drama, we chatted about the future, our homes, and our significant others. Instead of sitting outside, we were now old enough to get into restaurants with bars. So much has changed, but almost all of it in a good way.

However, returning to a place where you spent significant time is harder than seeing old faces improve. A place holds memories and, when gone, you think of it in a specific way. When you return and it is smaller, less monumental and less note-worthy than you remember, it is a hard realization. There is always the lingering thought that settling in that particular place again would be the same as it was previously, but history, despite the Socratic saying, doesn’t repeat itself in this sense and returning home you always find it changed, but ever the same.

Doughnuts

Transportation — Nothing says welcome home like finding yourself stranded at the port with no public transportation option and a long line of cab drivers rubbing their hands together in a very Scrooge McDuck fashion. While public transportation has been our norm, America is the one place this hasn’t been possible. For a 5 mile cab ride we spent $20 USD, which is also the most expensive cab ride of the trip (despite having taken a 45 min cab in China).

Health – The average American walks less than one mile a week and eats an average of 3000 calories a day, as a result, Americans are fat. This was shocking to see after having lived in China and traveled through so many third world countries where someone that fat would obviously have to be royalty. I was shocked to find no sidewalks along most streets, rendering walking impossible even if people had wanted to. Meanwhile, elevators and escalators appeared near every set of stairs so that no one has to exert themselves – ever.

Convenience – Wal Mart is convenient, we’ll give it that. But it is also a shame that all over America you can walk into any chain store or restaurant and never get the experience of trying something new or having to search for anything. Things are too easy, too cut and dry. We spent weeks searching for sunscreen in Central Asia, it became a fun challenge and when we finally did find it the feeling was euphoric. The same goes on a daily basis for find food, lodging and clothing—which could be achieved with ease in the States, but without much adventure or risk.

….and a few things I did miss:

America is such an interesting and vast country. If you wanted to walk from south to north, it would take you the better part of a year over mountains, across plains, through woods, swamps, deserts and streams. The vastness and openness of the country is something I will forever be amazed with.

Traveling in the Republic of Georgia we found people can be as friendly and polite as hotel staff on a daily basis. Most countries cannot boast this. Americans are lucky to be able to say that unless you are in a big city, most people will be chatty, friendly and pleasing. I missed how friendly and talkative Americans can be.

For people who have never left their home, or the area where they grew up, this post will be a bit shocking. It’s about missing things that were taken for granted when they were too obvious to observe. After living in China for seven months, I was surprised at what I missed most about America.

I missed the food. American food is truly the most versatile, and perhaps for that reason we are the second most overweight country in the world (the first being the Philippines). I miss the availability of Mexican food, Italian cuisine, German brats, French cafes, Indian buffets, Chinese delivery, hamburgers, Mac & cheese and especially walking down the isle of the grocery store and realizing that every isle is the ‘imported foods’ isle, as America is composed of so many ethnicities that we benefit in that we see more of the world’s cultures in our grocery stores than most people in the world see in a lifetime.

I missed the people. American people are an independent and stand-offish lot to a newcomer. But to a veteran of the country, they are seen as stubborn because they are proud, closed-minded because they are determined, and most importantly– they are forward looking. Perhaps because American history extends back only a few hundred years, we have not had to live through massive defeats that left the nation in shambles. We are an optimistic, fun-loving, humorous and above all, an analytic people.

Fishing

I missed green. In China and Central Asia there are massive open spaces– but they are called deserts. In America we have massive fields of grass or growing grains. We have national parks, mountains, streams, and openness in the geography that makes us feel small and yet empowered. A thunderstorm in Illinois is somehow more beautiful than anything in the Louvre.

I missed the air. We take our lack of air pollution for granted. The rest of the world suffers from pollutions that cripple their lungs and darken the skies. Smoking is not seen as a health hazard in China, for example, because at least smokers have filters for the local air. Living in China, seeing the sky was a luxury. Living in America, I could stare at the blueness of the sky for hours without being bored. Clouds have so many shapes!

I missed the culture. Americans are friendly, perhaps owing to Christianity and a fear of Hell if one does not try, with every moment, to attain the rights to heaven. Nevertheless, in American people open doors, pull out chairs, say hello or nod to acknowledge your presence, give seats to the elderly, and have ramps for the disabled and offer vegetarian selections on their menus. Though not a veggie lover myself, all of these small kindnesses add up to a place wonderfully easy to live in. These things we call manners are really cultural quirks, and do not exist everywhere.

Well, when I lived abroad those were the things I missed, and when I returned to America they were the things that made me smile on a daily basis. Wherever you call home, find something simple and taken for granted to smile about today.

-Posted by Lauren.

Chengdu’s Giant Panda Research and Breeding Center, China 2006

How We Became Cube Abandoners:

There is a certain dread that washes over a student when she realizes she will graduate within a few months. The dread starts subtly so that it can easily be ignored. It creeps up like a chilly breeze until all of the sudden you are shivering with worry and anticipation. The dread was extreme in my case because I was studying history—and therefore knew I would be unemployed when I graduated. After more than twenty interviews (brought about after sending out hundreds of resumes) I found myself lying on my air mattress in Illinois, listening to the cicadas and wonder if adulthood was supposed to be this full of rejection.

I contemplated my alternatives to the sounds of mating insects. There was always the military, and, having been a military brat I knew the advantages as well as the drawbacks.I had applied for various teaching positions with my MS in history, as well as researching and writing positions—but to no avail. With only two weeks until graduation I had no leads whatsoever.

The First Destination: A Chance of Glance

I went over to Mike’s after an evening of brainstorming possible occupations. We split a bottle of Jack, a tray of ice cubes, and watched Arrested Development as we talked about how hard it was to find jobs. Mike had a big map of China on his wall, having travelled there the previous year. I gazed at it while I chewed an ice cube. “I guess I’ll go to China,” I said. “Want to come?”

We found a teaching service in Beijing online and arranged to meet with a representative of their office when we landed in Beijing the following month. Once we’d said goodbye to our families, packed two suitcases full of snacks, water purifiers and flip-flops, we boarded a long flight from Chicago, and were on our way.

We unfurled wrinkled attire from our backpacks and rolled out of the hostel bunks, jet lagged and stunned by the brightness of the sun. We met the rep over lunch; he told us we were hired. We ate a massive lunch of chilled cucumber in garlic and fish heads in oil, drank black tea and listened to our stomachs protest as we talked contract terms. We finally agreed to work 20 hours a week for 8,000RMB a month. That was somewhere in the ballpark of 1,000 US dollars a month.

Our First Epic Adventure: Whirlwind China

Mike and I had decided to take a whirlwind month-long tour of China by train and bus before settling into teaching. Hoping to go from Beijing to Xian to Chengdu and then up through the desert to Xinjiang and then shoot across to Beijing again—no problem. We informed the school that we would be back in July, and we checked out of our hostel and headed for the long- distance train station. We left our bags with the headmaster of the school as collateral, “of course we’ll be back!”

Mike had studied Chinese in college for three semesters. I had taken one semester and earned a B (my only non A). For the first two weeks of travel Mike did all the talking in Mandarin. However, by the time we would reach Sichuan those skills would become useless, and my amazing charades skills would come into play as our primary means of communication with the Tibetans.

-posted by Lauren.